Azure by the river.
by Mike
Since we intended to ride all over Southeast Asia & Europe on two wheels it was prudent to take Washington’s motorcycle safety course. So, the weekend before I left, I sat with four other guys in a classroom captained by a well-intending man who reminded me of Dr. Phil, though not quite as stern nor insightful.
In his introduction he explained that he loved helping people safely experience something that’s given him so much joy. But he especially loved getting to know his students. This was a safe zone. There would be no wrong answers, he emphasized.
That said, we jumped into it. “First off, can anyone tell me the greatest risk to motorcycles on the road?” The answers he wanted were pretty obvious – other cars, potholes, dangerous surfaces – but we were reluctant to raise our hands. I’ve met a lot of idiots, but maybe the biggest idiot I’ve met was in the class, and he finally spoke up: (read more)
“Crashing, it’s THE number one risk,” he said. “That’s factual.”
Everyone looked at this guy cockeyed trying to read if he was for real, meanwhile the instructor paused for an extraordinarily long time, perhaps taken by a chilling vision of the weekend to come. I was busy imagining what the guy thought lesser risks may be: currency devaluation, teen pregnancy or a housefire? All seem like risks, if you think big enough.
My list differed from the standard “SUVs and potholes” as well. Mine were: chickens darting into the road, rabid dogs going for your leg, hot grills crowding the street and child drivers. The instructor paused an extraordinarily long time, perhaps taken by a lovely vision of riding in Asia. The other students looked on in awe.
Yesterday, in Bali, we finally hit the road, and I was well-prepared for motorcycle safety in the third world. We rode through parts of Indonesia that reminded me of India – dirty markets, hectic streets and people dressed in drab clothes. Then we got to parts that were so remote that they didn’t remind me of anything I’ve seen before – we drove through tribal areas high on the hills where people still lived in thatched-roof huts and didn’t speak Indonesian (they spoke Balinese). Throughout the trip we had to avoid chickens, dogs, grills and child drivers.
If you’ve never encountered school children in the third world then you’re missing out. Dressed in government-issued uniforms, these kids went NUTS when they saw two white people coming down the road. They would scream “HELLO! HELLO!” and wave like miniature flight attendants on speed. Drive between two schools and you’re in a parade, waving to both sides and truly touched by the outpouring of love from the community. Azure and I screamed “HELLO! HELLO!” until we passed through, leaving the kids jacked up and incredulous: “Did you see those fucking white people!? That was awesome!” I turn to Azure on the bike, “Did you see how fucking cute those kids were!? That was awesome!” It’s genuinely exciting every time, the social version of bubble tea.
Another thrilling circumstance arose when we took a short cut and ended up lost on absolutely ruined roads, but we pulled smack into the middle of a Hindu town’s scooter-mounted holiday procession to a monkey forest. They were dressed in beautiful formal Hindu sarongs, button up shirts and head scarves. Some of the men had nice sandals and the women looked stunning. We figured out that they were headed the same direction, so we just continued among them, Az snapping photos from the back of the scooter. We chatted with a very nice young couple on the neighboring scooter as we pulled up behind a truck loaded with revelers standing in the bed and waving, “Hello!” And we smiled & waved back. The instructor wouldn’t have liked any of this.
When the group finally turned off toward the monkey forest, Azure and I were left quietly heading toward Ubud, eight-and-a-half hours into the day’s ride. Exhausted and sore-butted, we overshot the turn to Ubud by seven kilometers. At that point I doubted we would make it back to our hotel. But we did, eventually, and collapsed into bed to sleep at 8:30.
Sandal envy
Tags: bali, children, dogs, hindu, home, safety, scooters
Published on December 10, 2009
at 3:15 am.
3 comments
Justin keeps trying to talk me into taking the motorcycle safety course, but me + anything requiring balance and coordination = disaster! Plus I much prefer being on the back and taking it all in, rather than having to keep my focus on the road. I wonder if Azure feels the same?
We’re hoping to relocate to Portland in the coming months, but SE Asia is our destination for next winter (finally, Thailand!). Another moto adventure perhaps? Might be hitting you up for advice on road conditions!
Beautiful new blog!
Hey Manami – Good to hear from you! Where are you guys right now? I check on your blog every once in a while but no updates recently.
Cool that you’re heading back to Portland – we’ll be back in Seattle in May, we should trade stories over PDX street food.
SEA is a paradise for scooter/motorcycle travel. We have a friend here who just spend a month touring Laos by motorbike, which sounds like a hell of an adventure. We haven’t spent much time in Laos, but everyone who has says it’s one of their favorite places in the world.
We’re touring Bali right now and finding that it’s great for scooter travel. It’s not nearly as touristy as we thought it would be because the island is deceptively enormous. Another great feature here is that there are a few main roads that everyone uses, but once you take a turn off you’re immediately on a quiet backroad among rice paddies and small towns. Definitely a lot of fun.
Did you do the American South this year? Tell me more about the food… maybe a new post?
Great to hear from you.
Lets meet up this summer! We hope to make it to Everett in late May, Justin’s old high school friends are getting together for Memorial Day.
Have you ever been to the South? It’s truly another world. I grew up mostly in Atlanta, but always felt like an outsider. The best road food is definitely in the South—fried chicken, BBQ, fried okra, fried green tomatoes, fried oysters . . . fried everything, really. Have you ever seen Paula Dean on the Food Network? Butter and bacon fat are the secret ingredients to just about everything!
I’ve been terrible with updating the blog. We are back in California and back at our jobs, and have had a steady stream of crotchety Italians visiting since Thanksgiving, which has been keeping us busy :/. The itch to leave is growing stronger—every time we hear a train in the distance our eyes glaze over and our minds wander . . .