Quarter Year

If he’s Jesus he’ll do this anyway

December 28, 2010 at 12:59 pm

by Mike

Ok, it only took me about 24 hours, but I got it – he looked at me and said, “I’m looking at the sinner.” Before I put all the pieces together I was planning on handing a piece of paper to him with my own personalized message, “I hope for the happiness of my enemies.” But then I figured it out. I had been walking around judging people and then he looked at me and judged me. Then I was going to impotently try to be holy. So I crumpled up the piece of paper and threw it away.

This morphs

This whole business of passing paper back and forth reminded me of a short story I wrote in 2003.

Here's the story.

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Riguardo al Peccato

at 8:06 am

by Mike

There I was, minding my own business being judgmental about all the other tourists, and I walked past a guy I’d seen a number of times before on the street – he was a street performer, one of those statues that moves when given a coin. He was dressed in a long, baggy robe made of stitched burlap sacks. The hood hung low over his head and eyes. He held a wooden staff and had long hair and a long beard, and I suspected his outfit was a reference to either Jesus or a monk.

I thought to myself, this guy is the most genuine person here. I don’t even look THAT different than the Italians, and they stare at me everywhere I go. “What, you’ve never seen women’s sunglasses before?” Well, he’s even a step beyond me with his long beard and hair, and they aren’t even dreadlocks, which is the standard counter cultural uniform here. So, I had to give this guy credit.

Instead of wasting a couple Euros on gelato I’d give him the coin. Solidarity.

I snuck up beside him, out of sight because I didn’t want any attention. At the moment my coin his his basket he was down in my face, looking straight at me with intense blue eyes no more than a foot away. He said something I didn’t understand, and in his hand he held a slip of paper rolled like a cigarette. I took it, and he straightened up and froze again.

I walked away from him buzzing and excited. I had thought I would be the one giving the gift, but here he made it an exchange. And even better, he gave me a riddle: the paper said something I’m still struggling to translate. It says, “Riguardo al peccato. V.G. XVI” Riguardo means “to look again,” and peccato is “sin,” though I’m not sure of the part of speech…

Tonight I’ll go back and see if I can get any information from him.

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Scooter time

December 27, 2010 at 8:49 am

by Mike

It was so fucking great to get back on a scooter today – I went high into the hills at the base of Etna and then coasted back down all the way to the sea. Higher on the mountain the churches and walls and buildings were made of darker stone, probably volcanic rock. It was a charcoal grey and sometimes it looked almost blue. There’s a ring of clouds that’s been obscuring Etna’s peak this week – the whole coast can be sunny and warm then up there it’s dark and brooding.

It was nice to be away from the tourist culture here in Taormina – at places along the drive I could smell the smoke of vocation – farmers burning leaves and branches they had pruned, I could smell olive trees as well. Things I associate with actual place and culture. I didn’t have to strain to interpret life rhythms from pastries. Symbolism can be poverty, anyway. Think of how an adult puts out cookies on Xmas Eve vs what a kid thinks of that act. Symbolic gestures are a skeptic’s nostalgia – we lack enough evidence that we should probably consider our rituals literal. And by pushing together the literal with the unknown we create faith: simultaneously holding contradictory beliefs. Treating gestures as symbols cheapens that power. God I hate tourism.

At some point, as I got more comfortable on the scooter, I could ride up the hill and lean into each curve like I was flying. I stretched out both my arms like wings and leaned over the front of the scooter, putting my face out in the sun. Finally I lifted my body up behind me and was actually flying, eyes closed, arms out.

Here's the route

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Sambuccino

December 25, 2010 at 2:46 pm

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by Mike

At 9:30 on Christmas morning I sat in a piazza with bells ringing. Octogenarians wearing black trickled down the narrow side streets toward me – toward the cathedral – for mass. It was sunny this morning, warm in the sun, and the piazza caught my attention from another street because its ground is checkered black and white, so I was drawn to it and I sat on a bench. When the bells finished I decided to follow everyone into the cathedral. The service was bland. It was very cold in there, dark, too. Part of the service was in Latin, and it echoed like you might imagine Latin would echo in a stone cathedral in Castelmola, Sicily.

But this is what I was looking for in an experience – this trip hasn’t exactly been a masterpiece of independent travel so far. I left the farm without a plan and became the kind of backpacker I was 10 years ago – someone who wanders the streets and consumes the product of a culture without seeking to understand the process and spirit of its cultivation. Drinking coffee at a cafe isn’t the same if you’re not on your way to a fishing boat, nor is a nip of liquor if you’re not exhausted on your way home. Buying olive oil gives you no understanding of an olive farmer’s rhythm of life.

So in the cathedral I was happy to participate in my own way (reconciling their religion with my own beliefs by considering them distinct cultural expressions of a more basic spirituality), kneeling and closing my eyes when they knelt and closed their eyes, shaking hands with the people around me, taking my turn closing the door when it was blown open by the wind. People were dressed nice. This is a prosperous town.

It’s almost as if the role of this church service was to remind me of the absoute buzz and energy of life outside, because when I stepped out the sun was hot and bright and the ocean so blue, and I found my way to this courtyard. It overlooks the sea. Old men talked, a bonfire from the night before smoldered, a cafe did steady but relaxed business while it played inoffensive xmas music for the men.

I ducked into the cafe for a cappuccino and an old man stepped up to the counter next to me. I had shaken his hand in church. He pushed a Euro across the counter and the bartender poured a half-cup of espresso and filled the rest with sambuca, then slid the Euro back to the old man, “Merry Christmas.” The guy swallowed his drink without ceremony, then stepped out into the sunshine. I got the bartender’s attention and asked for sambuca in my drink as well.

In the courtyard, in the swirling ash and smoke, a Fiat pulled up that was so small the driver filled a quarter of the car. His golden retriever took up the entire back seat, standing and wagging its tail at the line of old men dressed in black, the dog’s fur pressed against the back window. The driver got out and talked to another man, the dog barked, the driver got back in his car and drove off. We should all be so lucky to become old men in a small European town. I ceremoniously sipped my sambuccino and watched them enjoy each other’s company.

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Taormina Town

December 24, 2010 at 3:23 pm

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Two More

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Orange Trees Abound

at 2:18 pm

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by Mike

Azure says I need to write more about where I actually am, so here we go: I’m in Taormina, which is a very touristy-for-a-darn-good-reason town that rides a mountain ridge – as if it were on a saddle. East coast of Sicily, almost to the toe of the boot. There are places to hike here, so I’ll do that tomorrow, and probably the following day. For now, a picture of an orange tree. And why not another? You only live once.

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